Low water pressure throughout a DFW home usually comes from one of four sources: a partially closed main shutoff, a failing pressure reducing valve (PRV), corroded galvanized pipe narrowing the flow path, or a municipal supply issue. Isolating which one takes 15 minutes.
Low water pressure is annoying but almost always fixable once you know the cause. Here's a systematic approach to finding it.
nnCheck the Main Shutoff First
nA main shutoff that was turned off for a repair and never fully reopened causes whole-house low pressure. Locate your main shutoff valve (at the meter or where the supply enters the house) and confirm it's fully open. A ball valve is fully open when the handle is parallel to the pipe; a gate valve is fully open when turned counterclockwise as far as it goes.
nnPressure Reducing Valve (PRV)
nMost DFW homes have a PRV where the main line enters the house — it regulates municipal pressure (which can run 80–100 PSI) down to the 50–65 PSI range that plumbing fixtures prefer. PRVs last 10–15 years and then start failing in one of two directions: they stick open (allowing high pressure, which stresses fixtures) or they begin restricting flow (causing low pressure). A pressure gauge on a hose bib tells you exactly what's happening. A failing PRV is a straightforward replacement.
nnGalvanized Pipe Corrosion
nHomes with galvanized steel supply pipe (pre-1970 DFW construction) experience progressive flow restriction as the pipe corrodes internally. The corrosion buildup doesn't reduce pressure at the PRV — it restricts flow downstream, and the effect worsens over time in every direction from a corroded section. The fix is repiping the affected sections or the whole home.
nnMunicipal Supply Issue
nIf multiple neighbors have low pressure at the same time, it's a utility issue. Check your city's water utility outage page or call them. If it's just your house, the cause is in your private plumbing. Call Staggs Plumbing at 682-284-0966.
